Down 'n Dirty in The Big Easy

I've blogged several times about the great food in New Orleans but have been negligent when it comes to other 'fun' the city offers; like music. Second Line Brass Bands to be more specific. You'll find these bands in both bars and on random street corners. They play  current music, only in the tradition of brass jazz bands, and of course good 'ole Nawlin's jazz. Their energy always draws a crowd and inspires lots of crazy dancing. It's AWESOME to watch.

To quote my friend Chris, "It's cool to be in the marching band in New Orleans".

Wanting to hear more, we went to Les Bon Temps Roule on Magazine Street, where the popular Soul Rebels Brass Band plays (every Thursday). It looks like a bit of a dive outside so I knew it was gonna be great inside; pool tables in the front bar, live music in the back. Uneven flooring and a narrow hallway connect the two. Thank God I left the stilettos in the car. We successfully navigated the passage and entered a fabulous, gritty party. People were jumping, dancing, sweating, packed in tight and up close to the band. There's something about brass, makes people wanna move that ass. When the band took a break, so did everyone else. The drinks were cold and cheap and there was no cover. Love this place.

NOLA is obviously a great city for music, so it's no wonder Lenny Kravitz has a place in the French Quarter. As luck would have it, we found parking on his street after leaving Les Bon Temps Roule. I pressed my ear to his doors but could only hear the hum of nearby Bourbon Street.

I'm a fan of Lenny's music and have been strung out on his new joint "Black and White America". It's a positive fusion of  funk, rock, hip hop and even some jazz. Get it! I wonder if Lenny got any inspiration from the Second Line scene. I found this video of him checking out the popular Rebirth Band Brass Band in a club that looks similar to Les Bon Temps Roule. If Lenny does it, you know it's cool! Be sure to scout out these kinds of bars next time you party in NOLA.

Po'Boy, Happy Girl

I typically don't order Po'boys because I am blinded by all that bread. However, on my most recent visit to New Orleans, the birthplace of the Po'boy, I discovered why these sandwiches are sought out.

Seems every restaurant in the Big Easy serves them and everyone has an opinion on where to find the best. The Parkway Bakery and Tavern is on the top of many lists so I set out with a friend to discover why. Parkway is in an area of town known as Mid City, and at the step-off for the Endymion Mardi Gras Parade. We were having some difficulty finding it so we called from the car and were told "its just across the bayou." Now looking for a big body of water we had to do a double take at the site of Bayou St John; it's at best, a small canal by Southwest Florida standards. Never-the-less we crossed it and found the unassuming Parkway on the corner of Hagan and Toulouse.

A chef taking a smoke break told us the pastrami and corn beef were delicious and made in house. He then guessed that I would order the shrimp since I was a girl. I rebelled and ordered the ham. The meat was sweet and salty; the bread crispy and delicate on the outside, soft and pillowy in the middle; incredible. We also tried the Surf and Turf; slow cooked roast beef, fried shrimp and gravy. It was a delicious mess.  There were 25 Po'boys on the menu with everything from BBQ to Alligator Sausage.

I stared blankly at our server when she asked in her southern accent, "do you want it dressed?" The Parkway didn't seem like one of those kind of places. Turns out a "dressed" Po'boy comes with lettuce, tomoato, pickles and mayo. Yes please.

A tasty, seasonal Abita Beer (Louisiana brewed) was just the right accompaniment to lunch. My Po'Boy fascination didn't stop at the Parkway. I savored one with oysters at the famous Acme Oyster House and it was spot on. So were the char-grilled oysters. More on that stop later. So much good eatin' in New Orleans.

New Yorkers say the key to their outstanding pizza is the water used to make the crust; you can only get it in New York. The people of N'awlins have a similar claim when it comes to Po'boys; the key is the bread and you can only find the good stuff in NOLA.

Bon Ton Cafe'

New Orleans is town full of flavor in EVERY way! I took a long weekend trip to attend a wedding so most of my dining options were not my own but all were fabulous none-the-less. Before my flight out on Monday I had time for a non-airport lunch and wanted to try the world famous "Mothers" on Poydras. Turns out I didn't have that much time, the line was down the sidewalk. So I wandered a couple of blocks to Magazine, stumbled on the distressed sidewalks and found Bon Ton Cafe'.

Bon Ton is in the historic 1840's Natchez building and can be spotted by the flickering gas lights and black and white canvas canopy. The tables are covered in checkered red and white tablecloths and the servers all in white. Bon Ton brags the Cajun food served is from family recipes and the family atmosphere is one of the many things the place is famous for.

The Crawfish Bisque was amazing! It was not a creamy bisque. It was loaded with Crawfish and a big hunk of dense stuffing. Crawfish, Red Fish, Shrimp, Jambalaya, Etouffee, Oysters the menu was loaded with delicious Cajun goodness. Whatever you do save room for dessert; bread pudding and Luzianne Coffee